Kitted out like the courtyard of a medieval castle, complete with fake torches, the 69th Regiment Armory was filled to bursting with deeply discounted designer merchandise and eager shoppers in the form of Valentino, Ralph Lauren, Giambattista Valli, Iman, Eve, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.
If you’ve ever played a game of Bingo with your grandmother, you know that Bingo dabbers, those messy markers that bleed all over N16 when you’re trying to mark N4, take the clean out of the official game of Good Clean Fun. Taipei based graffiti artist Dabs knows it too. What may have begun as a joke has turned into a very fitting name for the artist who isn’t afraid to get messy. Truly, Dabs dabbles. Dabs has tried his hand in a range of media and occupations, from computer animation to jewelry design, from art dealer to teacher, making him today’s urban Renaissance Man. He travels around Asia “staining the environment and peoples minds,” in his words, like a Bingo dabber on a fresh Bingo board.
Dabs began his career in art at a young age, painting soldiers and models and “nerd[ing] out in [his] basement making war dioramas.” Then he moved onto skateboards, painting under the influence of punk music and California artist and skateboarder Mark Gonzales. Later, Dabs dabbled in video game animation. Before long he was designing clothing, jewelry, tattoos and murals on both a commission and commercial basis. All the while this man has been teaching for his primary income, and for a brief period he owned a gallery as well, exhibiting both local and foreign artists.
“When I’m doing random bombing sometimes I just hit anything and I don’t care at all, and that can also come off nicely.”
The art form closest to his heart, of course, is graffiti. Dabs dabbles in aerosol, marking pens, wheat paste, computers and light tagging to name a few. He travels all over Asia tagging randomly in some cases, premeditatedly in others. Both methods work, according to the artist. Often he’ll scout out spots beforehand and contemplate a composition and color scheme that will compliment the spot nicely. Other times, he says, “when I’m doing random bombing sometimes I just hit anything and I don’t care at all, and that can also come off nicely.” Spontaneity is a challenge for Dabs, but often he finds it will generate better results than something planned out. He notes Asian tattooing, and Asian woodblock prints, as well as Pop art and comic books as artistic inspiration in many of his works. His favorite surface to tag is metal.
Because of his dabbling, Dabs has had the chance to do some major art world networking, and lots of opportunities have arisen as a result. His love for old school graffiti and hip-hop style name chains drove him to collaborate with his jewelry/clothing designer girlfriend on custom jewelry, which he sells on his website. He also contributes to the clothing design for his girlfriend’s label PetShopsGirl. He’s done t-shirt designs for a Hong Kong label called SubCrew, and for a new Taipei label called Skatopia. He also has some friends in advertising, and he was recently asked to do some light tags to be incorporated in a television commercial. Occasionally, Dabs even gets commissioned for murals and other paintings, but he says this is rare. He decided to open a gallery in an effort to further his networking, and, in the spirit of collaboration, Dabs started a graffiti crew in 2003 called Youth In Asia (YIA).
For an artist, Dabs is extremely realistic about his lifestyle. He teaches to keep a steady flow of income, so the art for him is just a source of pure fun. This is why he likes to continue to challenge himself, and to constantly try new things. He’s getting interested in the cross over collaborations of graffiti and other media, including sculpture and digital art. He still believes graffiti is only really graffiti if it’s being done on the street, which is why he respects the sculpture work of artists like Revs and Phase2, who do sculpture street installations and lettering inspired works. These days, he’s focusing a lot of his efforts on the clothing label, but would like to do more group traveling exhibitions in the future. As long as there are interesting opportunities presenting themselves out there, Dabs will continue to dabble.
Suffering from jet lag? Check out our list of spas with menus full of speedy services–including manicures, pedicures, massages, eye treatments, and facials.
Throwing elements of traditional Chinese, Japanese, and Korean dress into their creative woks, designers served up an eclectic Asian mix for Spring that included dragon prints at Yohji Yamamoto.
Wooden acting and choppy production quality aside (we think it’s part of its charm), when “Wild Style” was produced in 1982 the movie-going public was barely aware of the burgeoning hip hop scene sprouting up in the decaying urban centers that had been abandoned by the comfortable classes in the previous decade.
“Nothing else comes close to capturing the atmosphere of the early days of hip-hop and spray can art, of the burned-out and derelict Bronx,” recently noted The Guardian newspaper in England.
Centered around a 22-year-old graffiti artist named “Zoro” (real life Brooklyn artist Lee Quiñones) and shot on location in the the city’s rail yards with the generous permission of New York’s Metropolitan Transportation Authority, the film helped bring break dancers, hip hop DJs and the portrayal of graffiti as an art form (as opposed to abject vandalism) into the nation’s consciousness.
Twenty-five years later after its release, the independently produced film that helped springboard the likes of Grandmaster Flash and Fab Five Freddy has been reissued by Rhino Records. To celebrate, we’re giving away copies of the 25th anniversary DVD and book. Some of the extras included with the commemorative DVD include a documentary short featuring footage from the 20th Anniversary concert and new interviews with the musicians featured in the film.
One grand prize winner will receive: a “Wild Style” DVD (25th Anniversary Edition) and a Wild Style book (also available directly from the publisher, PowerHouse.
Two runners up will each receive: a
DVD copy of “Wild Style (25th Anniversary Edition).”
To enter follow the contact link at the bottom of the page, select “Wild Style Giveaway” from the pull-down menu by Tuesday, 20 November 2007, 11:59pm EST.
U.K artist Nick Walker has really been blowing up the scene the with his stencil/graffiti work. He’s collaborated with Kangol and done commercial work including work for the film Judge Dredd and Stanley Kubrick’s “Eyes Wide Shut” but never lost the subversive style that brought him up out of Bristol. If you haven’t seen his work before, there’s no time like the present to put yourself up on it.
Info.Image: Nick Walker
With the type of A-list cast that Todd Haynes assembled for his Bob Dylan biopic, I’m Not There, a seating snafu of the kind that occurred at the Tuesday-night Cinema Society screening was almost unavoidable.
Gama-Go is getting ready to release this menace of a robot, the “Deathbot” sometime next week. Produced by Ningyoushi, the figure stands 5″ tall and has an old-school 50’s meets Tiki vibe. So if you’re sitting at home alone watching twilight-one re-runs and eating Beijing-style pad thai, you should probably pick this up next week and make your style complete.
Info.Image: Vinyl Pulse
Based out of Vancouver, Canada via Dallas, Texas, Graham Oatman is redefining “West Coast Style” with his deathly-sick street-inspired aerosol interiors. Wallpaper just aint cutting it anymore with cats like this out there bombing living rooms with floating world clouds and sampaguita burners.
Info.Image: The Aesthetic Poetic
by Josh Teixeira
Finishing up the last leg of their North American tour, Annuals and Manchester Orchestra have been bringing their intense style of melancholic indie rock to cities across the country for the last couple of months.
Cool Hunting was lucky enough to catch their Halloween performance in New York City. Featuring two of the best bands of their ilk that we’ve heard in a long time, the show, replete with costumes and plenty of stage dramatics, was a memorable one. Manchester Orchestra’s melodramatically confessional anthems left more than a few mouths agape, and “amazing” was heard uttered more than once as the crowd milled around after their set. Annuals’ eclectic urgency refused to be belied by their zombie costumes, and proved an suitably haunting end to the night.
Both bands are at the top of their game and are really redefining and reenergizing a well-established genre. If you’re lucky enough to live in one of the cities left on their tour, do not miss out. You can pick up the Annuals’ Frelen Mas and Manchester Orchestra’s I’m Like a Virgin Losing a Child at iTunes.
7th on Sale is back with a one-of-a-kind fashion experience that offers shoppers thousands of items direct from the world’s top designers between November 15 and December 6. Best of all, 100% of the money raised goes to services and housing for those living with HIV and AIDS.
As the cocktail hour progressed at Cipriani on Tuesday night, all eyes scanned the room for the man of honor: Tom Cruise. But the actor, who was being fêted by the Museum of the Moving Image for his three-decade career in cinema, had Katie Holmes to take up the slack.
Classic estate-wear champ Fred Perry has hooked up with Alistair McKimm of Japan Vogue fame and the results are fresh, clean and to the point. Take a jog down to the boat-house, smoke an imported ciggarello, it’s Fred Perry baby! Style and sophistication that ages better your Uncle Vito’s wine collection.
Info.Image: Honeyee via High Snobiety
Dermatologist Nicholas V. Perricone has an eponymous skincare collection of age-defying lotions and potions, but for his own personal use, he whipped up something extra-special.
Beautiful/Decay is showcasing the latest in creative media later this month with a symposium that will include Cool Hunting’s own as well as Brand New School, a film and animation studio based on both coasts, that will be curating a series of films.
This segment will include some of their own work as well as an interesting music unofficial promo video recently released for the album Golden Cage by Whitest Boy Alive, an electronic music project that’s whittled away its programmed elements down to a simple guitar, bass and drums sound.
The music video set to the track “Dreams,” was directed by graphic designer Geoff McFetridge, the 33-year-old artist and filmmaker who’s made his name designing title sequences for Hollywood movies and household name fashion products. McFetridge’s work here is a brilliant example of simple line animation that puts concepts and ideas over production quality that’s a nice compliment to the simplicity of the music. His flip book-style animation is a welcome contrast to the usual soulless offerings that rely on post-production flashiness to conceal a lack of imagination.
There are only 200 seats available at the event, so you may want to get yours now. Doors open at 6:30pm 20 November 2007 at Anthology Film Archives at 32 Second Street in Manhattan. It’s expected to sell out; tickets are available in advance.
LOCAL style mavens were yesterday pipped at the post, with a Kiwi designer winning the richest fashion prize in Australia.
Flappers roared back to life on the Spring runways. Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy paired Daisy Buchanan-worthy hats with a number of ensembles that would’ve made Coco look twice.
“I get mines the fast way, ski mask way,…take money, take money, money, money!” BBC will be releasing these robotic ski masks in very, very limited quantities here in the US. Only 7 pieces of each style will be released here and they will be split between Commonwealth and the BBC Online Store. Stay on the lookout because you know they’re going to sell out quick. Just hope you don’t get robbed by somebody wearing one.
Info.Image: High Snobiety
Puma and Shanghai Tang have linked up to produce a pretty dope shoe for the ladies. Shanghai Tang lends it’s bold and colorful style to the classic Lena canvas and I doubt it could’ve come out any more dope than this. As you expect, the shoe is definitely limited and only available at selected Puma retailers.
Info.Image: Sneakerfiles
Offering further proof that it’s all about the bag and the shoes, the 11th annual Accessories Council Excellence (ACE) Awards gala drew a crush of fashion A-listers. See who attended and what they ‘brought.”
House call: Skin guru to the stars Eileen Harcourt launches a new line, sure to keep you ready for your close-up all winter long.
Kidrobot and Lemar & Dauley are definitely two brands that bring innovation and personal style to the forefront. The two have teamed up again to release these tech hoodies that boast the Lemar & Dauley cloud artwork, 380g 100% cotton French Terry for premium comfort and an inside ipod pocket with a cord loop for ya’ headphones. No release info yet, but we’ll keep you posted.
Info.Image: High Snobiety
Graffiti writer who has tagged too many surfaces to keep count, or a mindful professional who works hard to master their craft? French graffiti artist, Dezio, blurs the ever-present stereotypes and the rough image of graffiti artists with his honest and reflective look onto his path as a graffiti writer. After listening to what he has to say, it becomes apparent that you can be one in the same. “There is nothing real gangster or bad ass about graffiti,” Dezio explains, “it’s just being a kid and getting your name up without paying society, and that’s what I love about it.”
Growing up in Paris, as an artistic child who was constantly drawing, Dezio recalls his love for graffiti was established at the age of 15. “The idea of seeing and showing my drawings to as many people as I could really got me hooked,” recalls Dezio. At the time, however, there was not a strong presence of graffiti writers in the French capital. It took Dezio a few years to come to understand that there was so much history and depth in his chosen art outlet. “It wasn’t till I met up with Extreme MCT SCC TRC, that I got to understand more about the culture and discover that this was happening in many other countries, and that people had been documenting and writing about it for over 30 years,” says Dezio. Since then, he has taken a scholarly approach to developing his graffiti skills, including meeting up with various writers who have been all over the world in order for him to attain a genuine grasp of his art. It seems as though if there were a book of what to do to become a true graffiti artist, Dezio would be diligently following it down to the last word, or maybe even be the author. It can be argued that the only thing sinful about his drive as an artist is his glutinous approach. He says that from an early age, he’s “been obsessed like an obese kid, ingurgitating as much as I can. I saw and read as many books and documentaries as I could and my goal is to keep doing so for as long as I can.”
These days Dezio has been spending his time devouring Chinese cuisine, along with the rest of the culture, as he is living and working in Shanghai, China. When asked about what his influences are when it comes to his graffiti writing, Dezio has a hard time listing off specific people, places or things: “My influences are taken from my daily life as my mind is constantly assembling and disassembling my environment no matter where I am or what I am doing.” Although, the young Parisian poetically admits that his new residence undoubtedly affects his street writing, “I guess that being in China now influences me, both by the lack of good quality materials to paint, the absence of graffiti in the streets, and the general beauty in the Chinese culture,” he says, “everything is just a beautiful mess.”
Something that is anything but a mess, is Dezio’s thought process when it comes to one of his spraycan creations. He carefully explains how his graffiti often reflects the differing layers and elements in everyday objects, “I can start with block letters then have one letter as an illustration, to finish with a throw-up style O,” says Dezio. He compares his art to something as seemingly simple as a building: ”there is a general aspect that ties everything together, but every floor is unique,” he explains. It is clear that Dezio is very attuned to his surroundings, and why and how he sprays what he does. “One of the biggest misconceptions is that graffiti is just mindless vandalism,” says Dezio, “I guess you can argue that it is pointless vandalism, but it’s not mindless, as everything is often thought out.”
A person gets a sense of how mindful graffiti writing is when you hear Dezio speak of his many adventures of tagging while trying to avoid getting caught –something that comes with the territory of graffiti writing. “I’ll tell you one of my more recent ones where luckily I didn’t get arrested,” says Dezio. What followed was a lengthy story- which resembles a meticulously planned bank heist scene in a blockbuster thriller- involving, Dezio and his homeboy staking out a guarded bus lot, a foot chase, destruction of evidence –in the form of spraycans, and a getaway car. All said and done, Dezio realizes that “[they] were lucky to have escaped, as I don’t really feel like exploring the insides of the Chinese justice department.”
For the time being, Dezio continues to live and work in China. He says that he has no set plans for the near future, but graffiti wise, he is focusing in on Chinese characters. Trying to understand how they work and “getting them into a graffiti vibe.”
The last time the fashion industry experienced a female liberation movement was during the “bra burning 60s.” Bras, high heels, make-up and other items supporting the unattainable, standard of beauty, were lit aflame in a “freedom trash can” to symbolize opposition to sexual oppression.
Traditionally, the women’s wear industry has been flooded with hyper-feminine pieces with low-necklines and bias cuts leaving females to pursue the male dominated streetwear industry. With little to no options, females were only recently given quality alternatives including a leader of the female streetwear pack, Hellz Bellz.
Since 2005, Hellz Bellz has provided edgy, trendsetting females with graphic tees, jackets, denim and accessories that feature everything from a gun-toting Minnie Mouse to studded hand cuff belts and AK47s. Designer Lanie Alabanza defies all the rules of conformity and any fashion entity that claims a woman’s style cannot breach strength, individuality and feminine flair simultaneously. As Hellz Bellz approaches its four-year anniversary it continues to provide fashion alternatives for the bold fashionista. A streetwear liberation is upon us, become a part of the movement.
“I live my life knowing that I’m a strong woman and I have the ability to create my own destiny.”
Format: How are you?
Lanie Alabanza: I’m good thanks. I’ve been busy as hell with all the trade shows that just passed and traveling back in forth between NY and Cali. It’s been a bit stressful but everything is starting to settle down again so I actually time to breath and relax a bit, but not for too long.
Format: What have you been working on?
Lanie: Right now I’m working on getting my Holiday collection ready to ship, making adjustments to the Spring I & II line, finishing up Summer 08, and putting together some special projects here and there. Sounds like a lot but luckily I have my husband, Bam on board now to take care a lot of the business end of the brand and helping out with design for the denim collection, which is a huge weight lifted off my shoulders.
Format: What theme have you developed for the winter collection?
Lanie: When designing a collection, I basically make what I want to see in my closet. This didn’t fall short for my Holiday ‘07 collection, which is set to deliver mid-October to early November. I’ve always had an interest in the early 60’s mod/punk scene in London so I developed a collection with a mod influence but gave it a military twist through the cuts, details and graphics. The military-mod theme isn’t completely literal but its influence is apparent.
I really can’t wait for this line to drop. I have to say that this collection is by far my favorite so far. I designed the collection right after I left my previous job. So I was able to put so much more into it and it shows.
Format: Who are your design influences and idols?
Lanie: Although I often credit Vivienne Westwood as my idol, she doesn’t necessarily influence my designs. I’m inspired by her works and how she was an impact to the punk and fashion world but I don’t design a jacket or create a graphic with her or her designs in mind.
Actually, a huge influence and/or inspiration to my work comes a lot from my husband Bam. Aww, he’s going to be so happy to hear that. I’ve never really told him that, but in all honestly, he’s not only my husband, he’s also my best friend and business partner. I’m with him 24/7, so if you can imagine he’s a big part of what drives my emotions and thoughts, which influences my work. Other than myself, he’s also my biggest critic, which I love but also hate at times but he’s super talented and comes from an awesome design background so any of his input to what I do is totally appreciated.
Format: Where did you get the inspiration for your work, your graphics and themes? They are pretty unique.
Lanie: I get inspired mostly by the music that I listen to such as The Clash, Roxanne Shante, The Specials and so much more or by an image I may come across that provokes a certain thought or question.
Unique? Thanks, that’s a huge compliment. I guess what I do is unique because when designing I refuse to follow the standards or trends that are often dictated through the media. I totally block myself from all blogs or magazines just so that I’m not subconsciously picking up inspiration from someone else’ work. There are times when brands have the same graphic and their reasoning for it is that they have the same design influences. I try my best for that to never be the case with Hellz Bellz with another brand.
Format: You use a strong liberated woman theme. Can you please elaborate on this?
Lanie: It isn’t a theme. As cheesy as it may sound, it’s a way of life. I live my life knowing that I’m a strong woman and I have the ability to create my own destiny. It’s very liberating once a female understands the power that she has within. There isn’t a better feeling than being a positive woman who is sure of herself and empowered by her thoughts and mind.
Format: Do you feel Hellz Bellz has been successful in promoting that message?
Lanie: I’d like to think so. Anytime I hear from women that they feels strong or empowered when they wear HB, it’s been successful. However, I’m not saying, “hey ladies, buy Hellz Bellz and you’ll be empowered!” that’s definitely not the case but they’ll love and rock Hellz if they understand and appreciate the message behind the brand.
Format: What type of woman rocks Hellz Bellz?
Lanie: A forward, non-conforming woman who lives life to the fullest and understands first and foremost that individuality is key. She’s also a strong female who isn’t afraid to speak her mind or express herself freely.
Format: You have been noted as a controversial brand. Do you feel any pressure from the industry to be less “controversial?”
Lanie: If I were to ever feel pressure from the industry to be anything but what I want it to be, that would totally go against what Hellz Bellz is about. HB is not your cookie cutter brand that falls into trends or industry standards. I use my brand as a medium to express myself and if what I do is “controversial” or makes people question society and authority than I’ve done my job.
Format: Traditional streetwear brands like Triple 5 Soul and Rocawear are very different in design, message and tone from Hellz Bellz. Did you have to hold back your creativity when you designed for these labels?
Lanie: Although both companies are totally different in design and message in comparison to Hellz Bellz, that doesn’t mean I had to hold back my creativity. If anything it forced me to be more creative to design outside of my personal style. There’d be times when they’d say to design a “dumb-dumb” graphic, meaning a graphic without much thought into but more like a basic logo with little or no treatment that would sell all day. But I’m definitely not one to hold back my skills in anything I do, so although they’d ask for a “dumb-dumb” graphic, I would still put effort into it. It was a bit daunting designing for companies that had completely different visions than I did, but at the end of the day, it’s not my company. It was my job to create graphics and clothes with someone elses message and tone in mind and it was my goal to do it with the best of my ability.
Format: Was there pressure from Rocawear and Triple 5 Soul to conform to the general urbanwear style because in the case of Parish Nation the designers didn’t like the direction Enyce was going so they broke away and created a new label. Was this the same case with your label?
Lanie: Isn’t Parish owned by the same company that owns Akademiks? If that’s the case, I’m pretty sure they still have the pressures of following the urban market. But anyways, that’s besides the point. For me, it’s definitely not the case. I never felt pressure to conform at all. I understood the formula to designing for urban wear. It may not have been my vision or what I thought would be best for the company but again like I said before, it wasn’t my company.
Before leaving my previous job, I juggled both Hellz Bellz and Rocawear for over a year. I would have done it longer but it wasn’t fair to either brand. I was putting in 100% into both but if I had it my way I would have preferred to put in 110%, which wasn’t happening. I broke away from RW because if I was going to put 110% into something I wanted it to be in creating products that were a reflection of me and what made me happy.
Another reason for leaving was because I felt that as a “designer” I was getting too used to the commercial sense of the word. I’d go to work, go through the motions of taking note from the “boss” to make sure the objectives of the season were met. It just became too mechanical to me and I hated that.
Format: To what do you attribute the lack of female designers in streetwear?
Lanie: It may not seem like it but female designers definitely have a presence in streetwear, that’s for sure. Just because they may not be in the forefront with their own line, doesn’t mean they aren’t there. As far as female brands in streetwear, the niche is still pretty small but it’s good to see that it’s progressing. I’ve been seeing a lot more women’s brands popping up as of lately, but whether or not they are actually designed by a female or have some guy behind the computer designing for them, that I don’t know. It would be nice to think that a female is behind them all and not just a face for a brand.
Format: What would you consider your signature piece?
Lanie: It’s different each season. For holiday, I’d say the piece that best encompasses Hellz Bellz as a whole and is a perfect reflection of the direction of where we’re going with the brand, would be the Rock The Bellz hoodie. It’s sueded fleece, with binded ruffle detail, front singes, and button closures. Sounds crazy, and it is. It’s a must have for the holiday season.
Format: If you could collaborate with any company or designer, who would they be?
Lanie: If they were still around I would love love love for Bam and I to collab with Charles and Ray Eames. That would be so sick! I know, it’s totally outside of the box but we’re huge fans of their works and them as people. It’s always fascinating learning of other couples that not only work together on projects they are passionate about but are also successful.
Format: What can we expect from Hellz Bellz in the future?
Lanie: Expect to see growth in the brand, whether it is within the collection or through different mediums outside of fashion and design. As I get older, I expect the line to grow with me, so I envision Hellz to slowly progress into more of a mature line. Also, with Bam in the picture, expect to see some special projects catered to the fellas, which will come into fruition sooner more than later.
Format: Do you have anything to add? Shameless plug perhaps?
Lanie: If you haven’t already heard the new Hellz Bellz x Roxy Cottontail Endless Summer mix, click here to download. Also, thanks so much for doing this interview with me and special thanks to all my family and friends.
More Info: http://www.hellz-bellz.com/
It’s all about retro: Liquid liner used by Louis Vuitton, Versace, and Christopher Kane? Vintage sixties. Neon? Straight out of London’s eighties-era clubs, with a bit of Boombox thrown in.
The acceptance speeches were far more than afterthoughts as the Fashion Group International celebrated the industry’s “Rule Breakers” at their 24th annual Night of Stars.
Tracing the illustrious line that links the Duc de Saint-Simon to the Queen of all Media, we reveal history’s most notorious tattlers.
Rhodia’s waterproof orange covers have long been the notebook of choice for creative types. The French brand’s two new spiral bound options, Meeting and Reverse, are sure to win some followers as well. We’re torn on the whole spiral vs. bound debate (spiral lays flat and flips around while binding slips into a bag easier), so we’re glad to see Rhodia getting in on the game.
The reverse notebooks (above left) feature the same pleasing gridded paper that’s found in their classic flip-style pads, but here the square shape lends itself to use in any direction (hence the name). It has perforated pages and is available in either a black (new for Rhodia) or orange coated cover for $7.50 from Alko or Wet Paint.
Like Behance’s line, the pages of the Meeting series have a pre-printed layout to help organize thoughts with a section for notes and a sidebar for action. Also in black or orange (about the closest we’ll get to a Halloween post today), they come in two sizes, 14.8cm x 21cm and 22.5cm x 29.7cm, for $12 and $17 respectively from Alko.
The Geffen Contemporary at the MOCA L.A. is presenting an international, traveling retrospective of the career of Takashi Murakami, the exhibit features over 90 works in various media spanning Murakami’s career from the early 1990s to the present. There’s even a special preview of Murakami’s superflat-style animated film Kaikai & Kiki. The exhibit is open now and runs through February 11, 2008.
Info.Image: MOCA L.A
We recently checked out the launch of Sydney-based men’s fashion label Jon Pumper, a fresh athletic range drawing inspiration from a fictitious character with “legendary status as a ladies man” who has been ‘linked with nearly every high profile woman.” Rather fittingly, the launch took place at Sydney’s Deus Ex Machina, a motorbike shrine packed full of fast metal and retro moto-style threads, providing the perfect backdrop for fashion based on such strong male charisma.
Fashion guru, Chanel’s Karl Lagerfield, and star architect, Zaha Hadid, have combined to create this Mobile Art Container, which is to roam the world from 2008 to 2010 bearing installations by 18 international artists. The result of a chance meeting between the two in the lobby at the Mercer Hotel in New York, the “container” is to be manufactured out of super white fiberglass, with an exhibition ring inside.
Taking a similarly unconventional approach to marketing as the brand did with their recent blog initiative, the primary goal is to align Chanel with contemporary art and design in the public eye, and Lagerfield has already decided it’s money well spent: “We could have inundated the world with ads,” he said. “But this is a more noble project.” A win for all, we think.
Also on Cool Hunting: Jacques Polge, Parfumuer
What do DJ Quik’s 2000 release, Balance & Options, and the female hip-hop duo known as Nola Darling have in common? Exactly like the record reads: balance and options. Nola Darling represents the balance and provides the option of choice for hip-hop’s faithful. But it isn’t just about that for Jaq and Alex, better known as Nola Darling amongst the music scene. Never ones to be confined by borders, the Nola Darling duo have traveled the world in search of good music, journeying to South Africa, London, Amsterdam and Italy. Talk about inspiration.
Despite being fairly new to game, the duo continue to push boundaries and cross borders, figuratively and literally. In an age of masculine driven music, Nola Darling bring the sophistication, grit, intelligence, and swagger to spit with the best of them. Still, there’s more to this book of rhymes: creating dialogue, steering away from complacency, and developing classes and workshops designed to cultivate female emcees. Scratch Jack, Nola Darling are the Jills of all trades.
“I think we really appeal to a certain type of woman that doesn’t really feel like she fits in either category of extreme, it’s for everyday folk.”
Format: You guys have a track called “Who is Nola Darling.” Who is Nola Darling?
Alex: Nola Darling is an idea. It’s a strength, and an energy and a force, and a facet of us all.
Jaq: It’s like two forces collide, Alex and I together. We’re really taking it to the next level, pushing the boundaries, bridging the gap between your typical ethnic female rapper, which we are not, and the over-sexualized norm, which we are also not.
Alex: The name itself draws from the lead character of Spike Lee’s She’s Gotta Have It. We just drew inspiration from this character, her commitment to always choosing freedom. And it’s not that we’re promoting promiscuity or anything like that.
Jaq: We definitely don’t appeal to everybody. I think we really appeal to a certain type of woman that doesn’t really feel like she fits in either category of extreme, it’s for everyday folk.
Alex: But she is extremely cognizant of her ability to choose.
Format: On your MySpace page it reads, “We chant for peace and toast for kicks, rhyme for days and sing like we spit.” Can you elaborate on that?
Jaq: Both of us were raised by very pan-African parents, so awareness and politics are very significant to us. I don’t want to say we’re changing the world or anything like that. Perseverance and growth is an important thing, so I feel we definitely are about creating dialogue.
Alex: Along with that, in creating the dialogue, just opening up channels for Americans to connect with our brothers and sisters all over the world, throughout pan-Africa if you will. In our experience, our travels, people everywhere have preferred American hip-hop and American songs, but so rarely do we have the opportunity to hear other types of hip hop from different countries. Here, it’s not terribly accessible to us, and so therefore, as Americans, we tend to feel that a lot of us here have limited ears because of what is provided for us, for those of us who choose to go beyond and seek those other things.
Format: Nola Darling is based out of New York City. How does that factor into your style?
Alex: We both have historical pride for this city, and even though our formative years were spent in cities elsewhere, there was a reason that we met up back in New York and planted the seed here in this city.
Jaq: In New York there’s a place for everybody. Here we were in art school at Tisch and there we were really allowed to be our full selves and grow in a way that only New York, being one of the big cosmopolitan cities, will let you really be yourself and really grow.
Format: Are there any female emcees that you specifically look to for inspiration?
Alex: Latifah!
Jaq: MC Lyte, all day everyday. I feel like the majority of women I like aren’t even emcees, you know what I mean, like just based of off attitude and swagger alone.
Alex: We listened to different types of music growing up; we didn’t just listen to hip-hop.
Format: With hip-hop being what it is today, where does Nola Darling fit into the equation?
Alex: We’re just sick and tired of hearing the songs that say we’re sick of the state of hip-hop. We’re just trying to contribute something new, some kind of fresh idea that we enjoy, that feels right to us, that says something, that has an impact on our listeners, that coincides with the responsibility of artists – recording artists that spread their messages to the world – and we just have to make a contribution to if we were going to hate on the game.
Jaq: One thing that is always a point of discussion between us, and between our friends, is balance. There needs to be a balance in hip-hop. It’s one thing to hate on hip-hop, which we are all guilty of at some point, but I really don’t have a problem with all the finger snapping, heavy swagger records and the drug rap – like if there was just a healthy balance between that and people talking about everyday stuff in the media, which is something that we don’t have. There is clearly a considerable gap between the underground beat and the mainstream. And for us, it’s about embodying that balance between subculture and mainstream.
Alex: And as listeners we want to be able to have the choice, now it’s just very limiting with music.
Format: Do you consider yourselves the last of dying breed with there being so few female emcees in the game today?
Alex: Definitely not. We definitely recognize the need for more female emcees. It’s not something that our culture necessarily encourages. In such a way, it’s kind of a male focus in hip-hop and we just completely disagree. We’re actually in the process of helping to combat that with a project that cultivates the female emcee through classes and workshops, which are part of a social action plan that we’re putting together through Nou La Productions. It’s specifically catered to the artistic, emotional, intellectual, and academic needs of women in urban communities. So, definitely not a lack of, but [there are] incredible female emcees to come.
Jaq: We’re definitely not the end of a dying breed. This is just the beginning. We’re newbies in the game, and we embrace that. With artistry, you put yourself in a place where you shouldn’t be – you can’t be complacent. Hopefully, through our example, other young women will have the bravery to know that they can pick up the mic and not be afraid of it.
Format: A lot of critics, bloggers, and even fans have proclaimed hip-hop as dead. Do you believe people are asserting such a claim, or claims, because, in part, of the lack of female emcees in the game currently?
Jaq: We actually made a movie a couple years ago called WORD?! I Didn’t Know (________) Could Get Down Like That! With that, that was something that we tackled in our travels abroad – Africa and around Europe – just asking international hip-hop fans and listeners if they think hip-hop is dead and, honestly, perhaps it is, I don’t know. I think sometimes that it’s transitioning beyond being an American thing and this world market is something that is really really going to open up. And I’m looking forward to that. I hope that international artists get more of there due kudos.
Format: What kind of messages do you try to portray throughout your music?
Alex: That really just depends on what we feel about the song. We don’t have a set agenda. Some of the things we have talked about have included everything from not wanting to do a nine to five, the daily grind, everyday life, everyday struggles as artists living in this community – a changing community – also just about as artists, black artists in the city, and about relationships.
Jaq: We’re young and just want to have fun too at the end of the day. As long as we having a good time in our music, that’s what it’s really about. In addition to speaking on things that we see; we’re observers in the game too.
Format: What do you want Nola Darling’s contribution to be to music?
Alex: I think more than anything we want our music to resonate in some way with people. Whether that be in a really positive way or negative way, we just want them to have a feeling about it, and to move you in a way that causes dialogue, and that creates thought, and discussion and opinion, and keeps energy flowing. We don’t want our music to be stagnate at the end of the day.
More Info: http://www.myspace.com/whoisnoladarling
Cast your vote in Vogue’s first-ever Best Dressed Sweepstakes and be automatically entered for your chance to win one of fall’s most desired handbags—the Stam by Marc Jacobs!
Art Nouveau meets hippie chic on the Prada runways. Catch all the backstage beauty tips from Prada’s hair and makeup teams to complete your fall look.
Last year, my routine was just tinted moisturiser and blush (on the days I actually wake up on time). This year, I have officially added eyelash curling as the final step.
If you have read any top beauty secret lists in magazines, then you would remember that curling your lashes is always one of them. Curled lashes are supposed to make your eyes look bigger, make you look more awake -basically, brighten up your whole look. I always took this advice very lightly because it seemed that whenever I curled my lashes and applied mascara, my lashes just became straight after 5 minutes, so what’s the point? However recently, I’ve started curling my lashes at the end of my makeup routine. Surprisingly when I get home after school, my lashes are still curled, and sometimes, people even ask me if I have mascara on. The Fashion Group International awards, hosted by Iman at the Bowery Hotel, honored Alber Elbaz and Barneys New York’s Howard Socol.
New Era has way forgone the days of your typical on field baseball cap and has allowed for the style conscious person to enjoy a fresh fitted without looking like they’re on the mound. These fitteds follow in that same fashion vein and don’t allow for much disappointment. The Brown Tooth and Jumble caps are available this month while the Cue, Dabu Front Fur and the 80s Wordmark will drop next month.
Info.Image: Hypebeast
Making the decision to create a brand on your own is something that would make any sane person experience a wide range of emotions. Although, from taking even a brief look at No 1 of Consequences’ Season 1 line up, it is clear that Creative Director, Ryan Anzures, sprinted right past apathetic on the spectrum of emotions and went straight to opinionated when creating his t-shirt designs.
The Washington, DC native, who has worked for high profile companies like Stussy, Nike, In4mation, and Soul Rebel, just to name a few, makes it clear that he has got something to say. Combining bold designs with cheeky assaults on politics and pop culture, No 1 of Consequence caters not only to your average streetwear feen, but also to the people who keep their heads up and stay up to date with current events. Format takes some time to catch up with the ambitious graphic designer, and finds out what makes him tick.
“I really hate egotistical people, and I really think that Kobe Bryant embodies that kind of egotism.”
Format: Please introduce yourself to Format
Ryan: My name is Ryan Anzures, Creative Director and owner of No 1 of Consequence. I’m a graphic designer who’s been in the industry for about five years. I worked with a bunch of different companies and freelanced until I actually started my own line.
Format: Where you are from, and how you got your start in design?
Ryan: I’m from D.C originally. I went to school in Brooklyn where I got my degree in Graphic Design. Then, through friends and stuff, I started out at Ecko Unlimited. It’s a really small industry so you just learn from other people.
Format: You seem to have an impressive resume, working for companies like Stussy, Nike, etc. At what point in your career did you realize that you should create a brand of your own?
Ryan: Nike flew me out to Hong Kong for their Asia Pacific line they have, and I designed a couple of pieces. Then from there, actually I can’t even remember who I started working with after that, but I eventually started working with Stussy, Paul [Mittleman - Creative Director of Stussy] contacted me from seeing my own personal website online. We’re still working together actually. I also worked with In4mation. I met Randy, one of the co-owners of In4mation through where I work currently at Akademiks. He used to be the Art Director there and I guess he liked my style of work so we just worked together on projects.
It was always in the back of my mind to have my own brand. It’s just a lot of time to actually sit down and develop a theme and the whole concept of the brand and everything.
Format: There seem to be a growing number of young and fresh t-shirt companies on the rise, what sets No 1 of Consequence apart?
Ryan:I think the themes that I come up with and the messages behind each design sets them apart. I think everybody else is a little watered down in regards to a theme. They jump off certain bandwagons or certain things that are hot right now. What I like to do is actually take things from my personal life. I just really feel like the line is an extension of myself.
Format: “Trust no one” seems to be the motto of No 1 of Consequence, it is all over the website. Is there anything in particular that has happened to you that has sparked these trust issues?
Ryan: I don’t know, I think it is just a running theme. I feel there is a lot of fake people out there that you can’t really trust, and you just gotta keep yourself guarded from other people because they can use personal information about yourself against you, and vice versa. There’s a lot of politics that go on around the world, you just gotta keep yourself guarded sometimes I think.
Format: You mention in the description of your Traitors t-shirt that “heads of state” in particular should not be trusted, is there anyone else who you think should not be trusted?
Ryan: Good question. I don’t know off the top of my head. I guess, nobody- if you want to take the slogan at face value. Political figures right now is a big issue for me.
Format: Some of your designs are crazy, and have a ton of personality. Are you the sole brainchild behind the designs, or are their a group of you who come up with original ideas.
Ryan: All the designs except for one were done by me. The Two of a Kind t-shirt with George Bush and Saddam Hussein on it was a collaboration between myself and a friend of mine. We worked out that concept together.
Format: A few of your t-shirts definitely reflects No 1 of Consequences’ political opinions. Are politics always something you have had a strong opinion about?
Ryan: It has been consistent throughout my life. I think it is more about rebelling against a sort of system that has power over people, and who take advantage of that power. I think it is more about that than anything else. Any system where it is one group of people telling a bunch of other people what to do and how to act, I’m not really into that kind of system.
Format: In your opinion, what type of people would truly appreciate No 1 of Consequences’ style?
Ryan: I think people that are really involved in politics and more socially aware about certain issues and other people, which tends to be the same people who keep up with the news and pop culture. I think they would get more out of it than the average consumer. People who can really understand the messages behind each of the t-shirts. I try to make the designs so they can work for the average person, they won’t understand the message completely, but there are some dudes that will really understand what the meaning of the t-shirts are.
Format: Please take Format through No 1 of Consequences’ Season 1 collection.
Ryan: Basically a lot of propaganda against the government and things that are going on in pop culture, things in the past. Like the LA Rapers tee, is probably one of my favorites because I really hate egotistical people, and I really think that Kobe Bryant embodies that kind of egotism. I just wanted to call him out on that, but if I had to sum up the line I would say that it is a mix of the magazines Ego Trip and Adbusters.
Format: At the moment, No 1 of Consequence is a t-shirt line, do you foresee introducing other types of apparel in the near future?
Ryan: Oh yeah definitely. Eventually I would like to, but I’m pretty much the only one fronting the brand right now, it is pretty much an out of my apartment type of thing. Eventually I’d love to do some jeans.
Format: Which t-shirt do you foresee as being the top seller? Why?
Ryan: I personally like the LA Rapers t-shirt, but I don’t necessarily think that it will be the top seller. I’ve had a big response on the Brandwashed Tee -the one that states “Yo! Dat’s ill Son. Nice Kicks”. Yeah, I have just had a really good response from that t-shirt. It might be from the colors, or maybe it is cause of the message?
Format: Can you give us a sneak peek into what is coming for Season 2?
Ryan: There is gonna be more stuff about racism and just general things that are going on. I’d like to keep the theme of politics consistent throughout each season though.
Format: If No 1 of Consequence were to release a soundtrack, which three songs you would insist be on it?
Ryan: Good question. Probably any Public Enemy and Rage Against the Machine track. Also, DJ Shadow has been a little bit political, he did a track that was politically engaged, so his track would be a good fit too.
Known for his design role at Nike SB, Jeff Proctor now lends his style to Manik Skateboards for a piece of their fall line. This capsule collection contains a wide range of t-shirts and a whopping 8 skateboard deck designs. Cop these items and the entire fall collection at the Caliroots online store and other locations where Manik products are sold.
Info.Image: Caliroots
A perfect example of the strange and creative works that can come out of a collaboration between very different artists is the recent project by the filmmaker David Lynch and the shoe designer Christian Louboutin, both absolute masters of their medium. We discovered “Fetish” at Design Art London where these extraordinary shoes by Louboutin and their erotic photographic counterparts by Lynch were on show at the Pierre Passebon Gallery.
Many believe Louboutin’s sexy red soles to be art forms in their own right, but he has taken this fetishistic view of footwear to a new extreme with this series that’s more sculptural than wearable. Lynch, in his signature darkly twisted and sensual style, shot images of women bound into these sadomasochistic creations.
Louboutin says of the collaboration, “The models wore these unwearable shoes with natural grace. Their very white skin, very dark eyes and bright mouths melded with Lynch’s aesthetics…As is his habit, David Lynch made it into a décor populated with shadows.”
The reception of this project during its opening at Paris Fashion Week earlier this month was so rapturous that Lynch and Louboutin agreed to make five sets of shoes and five sets of prints for collectors to buy. The show continues at Galerie du Passage in Paris until 3 November 2007.
Also on Cool Hunting: David Lynch
Fendi’s history-making sunset fashion show on the Great Wall of China on Friday night was a magical event, at which designer Karl Lagerfeld was accompanied by guests like Kate Bosworth, Bernard Arnault, and many more.
The first thing that I noticed about Season 3 is that the clothes have become more fabulous than before! In episode 1, Audrina looked amazing in this silver dress, (which is by Alice + Olivia). It’s perfect for this summer (short, super short,) and a good choice for a date + clubbing.
Throughout the season, there has been scenes of Lauren and Whitney at the Teen Vogue office. Strangely (uh huh,) they didn’t actually do much other than compliment on each other’s clothes and reviewing Lauren’s feelings about things that had just happened to herself. It’s always nice to see the clean, pretty interior of the office of Teen Vogue.
And there are scenes of Heidi and Spencer being annoying together. I swear Heidi’s decisions never really make sense to me. And Spencer should really shave everyday.
In Season 3, Heidi has felt the need to flash her new assets every oppurtunity possible. Those dresses are seriously low-cut!
Somehow I feel like I’ve got a similar personality as Lauren, so I really like watching Lauren’s funny expressions and reactions to situations.
We’re going to miss Lauren’s headbands!
One thing I really liked about the show was the group hanging out at cool hot spots. Everything just looks so chic.
Maybe even more importantly, the girls just talking with themselves. It’s so nice to hear sort of normal conversations on TV. It’s sort of like watching yourself talk with your friends, except they live together (-so jealous!) And any show that has such a strong friendship element in it is definitely my thing!
And of course I’m going to miss the drama. Real or not, it’s just so entertaining!
Thankfully, (unfortunately if you hate them,) the cast will probably still be attending events and be photographed for another while. I can’t wait to see them in new, fun party dresses. Here, the girls are at the The Hills’ Season 3 premiere party. The FCUK dress Lo’s wearing is still available at FCUK stores in a few colours. It’s actually affordable so I really have to get myself to a store to try it on!
This is one of my favourite Lauren outfits. LOVE the Alexander Wang dress on her. It’s prettier and chicer than most of her plain dresses, but still simple enough to be ‘her’.
Featuring the works of three independent Sydney-based artists, the Animal Conclave exhibition at the Blank Space Gallery is a collaboration aiming to “fuse a rustic earthy theme” with a grittier “street style.” The project takes in the work of 3D animator and graphic designer, Bill Chen, who has recently made his mark in the fashion industry with street-wear label Meet Tyrone; self-taught artist SMC, who uses character based styles with a minimal color palette; and Striker, who claims to be “half-man, half-squid.” Indeed.
Animal Conclave
18-24 October 2007
Blank Space Gallery
374 Crown Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
Sydney, Australia map
“There is no need to question if Ezra One is the one. Birthed out of the womb with an intrinsic passion for drawing and painting, every step taken in his development as an individual has come hand in hand with his development as an artist. “I think the fact that I experiment with many different forms of art reflects my personality. I am a pretty active person and I love change in my life. It’s the same with my art; instead of doing the same thing a little different over and over again, I try new things to motivate myself,” says Ezra. Inspiration can be found in many things, just as one can find it here in Ezra, because to be able to do what you love and experience growth and harmony in both aspects is an extremely rewarding gift.
When approaching the art scene, the range of talent within the 27-year-old Swede’s artistic caliber can go from complex illustrations to unique logos, mouth-dropping portrays, as well as some exceptional tattoo work: “Creating different kinds of art helps me to develop my style which produces different techniques such as the use of light and shadow, realism, characters or pieces, [making] me a jack of all trades.”
Graffiti has been something that Ezra has been honing for the past eight to nine years. When his mind is intact, the results are crazy, and even within the confines of this art form, the creativity that Ezra finds is undeniable. “Art is kind of like a wave. Sometimes there are ups and downs and sometimes you don’t even know why you do your art like you do it right now. It’s the same with ideas and being creative - it hits you sometimes, and your mind spits out all kinds of cool ideas and sometimes your mind is empty and you don’t know what to paint at all.”
